Galleria Borghese
Overview
The Galleria Borghese, is a vital destination for Baroque art appreciation. It boasts an extensive collection of Baroque masterpieces, particularly sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and paintings by Caravaggio. Bernini's works, including "Apollo and Daphne" and "The Abduction of Proserpina," epitomize the intense emotionality and dynamic movement of Baroque sculpture. Meanwhile, Caravaggio's paintings, such as "Boy with a Basket of Fruit" and "David with the Head of Goliath," showcase his dramatic use of chiaroscuro, a hallmark of Baroque painting. The gallery also includes significant works by High Renaissance artists like Raphael and Titian, providing context for the evolution leading to the Baroque period. The Borghese Gallery captures the artistic zeitgeist of the Baroque era, emphasizing movement, contrast, and emotional exuberance, making it an essential visit for enthusiasts of this period.
Before you go
Purchase tickets in advance, on the official website only.
Check the website to ensure the art pieces you want to see are on display, they do a nice job of keeping their site up to date.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
The Caravaggio 2025 Exhibit at Palazzo Barberini is currently showing 3 of the Borghese Caravaggios until July 2025:
Young Sick Bacchus
St. John the Baptist
David with the Head of Goliath
Itinerary
Entrance
The entrance to Gallery Borghese is located in the basement of the building, there are signs pointing to the stairs on the outside of the building that take you down to the basement. Depending on the time of day they may suggest that you walk up to the second floor (two flights of stairs from the basement), but I suggest that you start on the first floor to take in the most exciting exhibits at the gallery. The gallery is easy to navigate as it is a square, so if you keep walking the same direction it will be easy to follow along with the itinerary.
The Abduction of Proserpina
The Abduction of Proserpina (c.1621) Bernini'
Upon entering the first room of the gallery, you notice immediately this magnificent sculpture. When observing Gian Lorenzo Bernini's "The Abduction of Proserpina"(c.1621-1622), consider the dynamic movement captured in the sculpture. Notice Pluto's muscular strain and Persephone's resistance, creating a palpable tension.
Pay attention to the expressive emotions on their faces, conveying Pluto's determination and Proserpina's fear.
Finally, appreciate the realistic details, from the texture of Pluto's beard to the way Proserpina's fingers press into Pluto's flesh. Bernini's technical skill brings the marble to life in a breathtaking way.
The rest of the pieces around the Bernini statue tend to rotate based on the current exhibition that is happening at the gallery. Our itinerary will continue into the next room.
Sleeping Hermaphroditus
Sleeping Hermaphroditus (1774) Bergondi + original stone from antiquity
Entering room 5, you come upon what looks to be a statue of a nude woman sleeping. However, this is one of the famous Roman Hermaphrodite statues that is believed to be from the second century AD. The statue was reworked to be lounging on a mattress in 1774 by Andrea Bergondi in a similar fashion as Bernini had done (whose Hermaphrodite is now on display at the Louvre.). It is an interesting decision by the Gallery to not make it possible to see the front of the statue, which shows male genitalia and female breasts, as it is blocked by pillars.
Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius
Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius (c.1617) Bernini
As we walk into room six, we see in the center of the room, Bernini’s masterpiece, Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius(c.1617). This work depicts Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius fleeing from Troy as it burns. Observe how Bernini is somehow able to portray the young boy’s skin(Ascanius) so much differently from his father’s(Aeneas) and grandfather’s(Anchises).
Make your way through room 7 and into the main event, Room 8. Galleria Borghese has recently moved all of their Caravaggio paintings into this room, which makes them easy to find, but also causes it to be quite congested, so you will need to be patient as you attempt to view the masterpieces.
Young Sick Bacchus - On Display at Palazzo Barberini until July 2025
Young Sick Bacchus (c.1595) Caravaggio
The first work is “Young Sick Bacchus” (c.1595) by Caravaggio. Note the unusual portrayal of Bacchus as pale and weakened, reflecting Caravaggio's own illness. Notice the dramatic use of light and shadow, known as chiaroscuro, which adds depth and realism. Finally, appreciate the detailed still-life elements, such as the decayed fruit, hinting at the transience of life and beauty. Caravaggio's painting is a fascinating blend of personal experience, technical mastery, and symbolic depth.
David with the Head of Goliath - On Display at Palazzo Barberini until July 2025
David with the Head of Goliath (c.1610) Caravaggio
To the left is “David with the Head of Goliath”(c.1610) by Caravaggio. Notice the intense emotional expression on David's face. Rather than triumph, David appears somber and reflective. Caravaggio painted this piece in the hope of receiving a papal pardon for the murder he committed in Rome. It's said that the severed head of Goliath is a self-portrait of Caravaggio, symbolizing his remorse and plea for forgiveness. The glare from the overhead light makes observing this work difficult, so you may need to move around to find a spot where you can really see David’s face without the glare.
Madonna and Child with St. Anne (Dei Palafrenieri)
Madonna and Child with St. Anne (c.1605) Caravaggio
The last painting on this wall is the large altarpiece “Madonna and Child with St. Anne”(c.1605). Caravaggio's characteristic use of realism brings the figures to life. Notice how the Virgin Mary, the Christ Child, and St. Anne are rendered with lifelike detail, emphasizing their humanity rather than idealized divine figures. It is this realism that likely led to the rejection of the piece and the subsequent purchase by Cardinal Scipione Borghese.
Saint Jerome Writing
St. Jerome Writing (c.1604) Caravaggio
On the opposite wall of the room you will find the gorgeous painting “St. Jerome Writing”(c.1604) by Caravaggio. Notice the introspective and contemplative expression on St. Jerome's face. Caravaggio captures the intense concentration of the saint as he writes, immersing viewers in the solemnity of the moment. The realism in St. Jerome's aged features and the textures of his skin and beard add to the lifelike quality of the painting. I am not sure if this painting has been recently restored, but it absolutely pops out of the canvas when you observe it, especially when compared to St. John the Baptist next to it.
John the Baptist - On Display at Palazzo Barberini until July 2025
St. John the Baptist (c.1610) Caravaggio.
In the middle of the wall you will find the haunting “John the Baptist”(c.1610) by Caravaggio. Notice the contemplative and slightly melancholic expression on John's face. Unlike many other depictions, Caravaggio captures a moment of introspection, giving the viewer a sense of the emotional and spiritual weight carried by the saint. If you stand to the left of the painting and look into St. John’s eyes, you can really feel his gaze on you and it provides a whole new perspective on this painting.
Boy with a Basket of Fruit - On Display at Palazzo Barberini until July 2025
Boy With a Basket of Fruit (1595) Caravaggio
Observe the naturalism and realism in the depiction of both the boy and the fruit. Caravaggio's attention to detail makes the textures and colors of the fruit almost tangible, showcasing his skill in rendering lifelike subjects The interplay of light and dark highlights the boy's expression and the contours of the basket, enhancing the overall visual impact. Appreciate the youthful innocence and introspective expression of the boy. Caravaggio captures a moment of quiet contemplation, adding a sense of intimacy and emotional depth to the piece. The painting is a remarkable study of everyday life, elevated through Caravaggio's masterful technique and keen observation.
After finishing with the Caravaggios, walk all the way through the next long room. Which contains various pieces depending on the current exhibition at the gallery.
(Bonus) Paolina Borghese Bonaparte as Venus Victrix
Paolina Borghese Bonaparte as Venus Victrix (1804) Canova
This amazing sculpture by Canova in 1804 is of Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister Paolina, depicted as Venus Victrix holding the apple that Paris bestowed upon her over Juno and Minerva. Take a close look at the details of this sculpture, especially the mattress. It is easy to forget that it is made of stone.
This is an example of neo-classicism art and not baroque, but we included it because it is truly a one of a kind masterpiece.
Walk through the next room and into room 3, where you will find the final piece on the first floor.
Apollo and Daphne
Our last piece is by Bernini and is the most famous at the gallery. Upon entering the room, your eyes will be drawn to the large statue in the middle of the room, where it looks like a man and woman might be dancing. If you get closer and stay to the left of the statue, you will notice the woman’s face is a mixture of fear and uncertainty. Upon further inspection, you will see her hands appear to have branches and leaves sprouting and what looks like it might be a fabric covering her leg is actually tree bark. If you step to the opposite side of the sculpture you will see that she is actually turning into a tree as she is being chased by Apollo.
This completes the short version of the itinerary. However, there are several important and interesting pieces of renaissance art upstairs that you may want to visit. Be aware that you will need to climb several flights of stairs to reach the second floor.
After climbing the stairs turn right and head into the large gallery in room. Walk through this room into another small room (15) and then turn immediately left in room 19. On the wall immediately to your left your will our next piece.
The Hunting of Diana
The Hunting of Diana (c.1615) Domenchino
“The Hunting of Diana”(c.1615) by Domenchino is a fascinating example of early Baroque inspired by Carracci. Domenchino takes the subject of Diana’s friends having a competition to shoot a dove that is tied to a pole. As you observe the painting, starting at the bottom of the painting you see a nymph in the water facing you, inviting you into the painting. Next to her is another nymph pointing up and to the right, if you follow the path you will see the pole, arrows and dove. Back to the center of the painting is Diana holding her arms over her head and her friends who have all just shot their arrows. Easy to miss but if you look at the bushes on the right of the painting you see two peeping Toms, about to get attacked by the dogs to the left.
Sacred and Profane Love
Sacred and Profane Love (c.1515) Titian
“Sacred and Profane Love” (c.1515) by Titian, is arguably the most famous painting at the Galleria Borghese. The two women are generally interpreted as being the same person, but two different sides to her. They are sitting on a sarcophagus with a cupid behind them playing in the water. The woman on the left is lavishly dressed, with gloves, while the woman on the right wears little. This artwork's rich symbols and icons have sparked countless interpretations. Nowadays, we like to think of the painting as celebrating the ideal bride's qualities. It captures her public grace, all her wedding-related attributes, and also portrays her as passionate and genuine in her husband's eyes when they're alone.
This concludes the Galleria Borghese itinerary. Let us know in the comments below what you think!
