Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Overview
The Galleria Doria Pamphilj in Rome is a fascinating private art collection, open to the public, housed in the grand Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. It features an impressive array of masterpieces by renowned artists like Caravaggio, Velázquez, and Carracci. The gallery is known for its richly decorated rooms and historical significance, offering visitors a glimpse into the artistic heritage of one of Rome's most influential families. With over 400 paintings dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries, it's a must-see for art lovers and history enthusiasts alike. This itinerary highlights our favorite Baroque pieces in this wonderful collection.
Before you go
Advance tickets are not necessary but you can purchase them online directly from the Gallery.
This gallery will not take a long time to visit, so you will want to tie it in with visits to other locations such as Palazzo Barberini or the Capitoline Museums, which are relatively close by.
You will notice all the pieces in the gallery have numbers assigned. I have noted the numbers on the pieces we describe, but they are not much use for navigating the gallery itself,other than to be sure you are looking at the correct painting. The numbers are not related to the piece’s location.
Itinerary
Entry
The entrance to the gallery is on via del Corso. You walk straight in and the ticket booth is on the right and there is a beautiful citrus fruit grove in a courtyard on the left. Continue straight through the garage area where there may be one or several luxury cars such as Ferraris or Lamborghinis parked. Continue straight and walk up the stairs where you will find a scanner for your ticket. There is a bathroom on your left and on your right you will find the first room of the gallery and there will be a person handing out free audio guides. It is worth grabbing the audio guide to get further insight into some of the more important works.
In the first room called the “Poussin Hall” you might think that the many massive landscape paintings would be by the French Baroque artist Nicolas Poussin. However, there are no Nicolas Poussin paintings in this room but there are many by his brother-in-law Gaspard Dughet, who they apparently refer to as ‘Poussin’ in Rome. The combination of the dark landscapes, poor lighting and high placement make these pieces hard to really observe.
Walk through the pink walled “Velvets Room” and the large ballroom until you are in the “small ballroom” you will find a Matti Pretti painting.
The Tribute Money (FC173)
The Tribute Money (c.1620) Preti
“The Tribute Money”(c.1620) by Matti Preti. The painting captures the moment from the Gospel of Matthew where Christ tells Peter to find a silver coin in a fish to pay the tax-gatherers. Mattia Preti was inspired by Caravaggio’s use of light, illuminating Christ and highlighting the fish and coin. The busy hands around the coin draw the viewer's attention and emphasize the story.
Continue into the next room where you will find many paintings and the gift shop. The gift shop contains some excellent books, including books on the history of the Gallery itself, as well as other books relating to art that you can find all around Rome. As you leave the bookshop, you will find yourself in the first wing of the gallery, which is nearly floor to ceiling covered in paintings.
During our visit in January 2025 the famous Reni painting of ‘Fighting Putti’ was not on display.
Fighting Putti (FC257)
Fighting Putti (c1630) Reni
“Fighting Putti”(c1630) by Guido Reni. Reni, frustrated by disputes with the papal treasurer while working on a Quirinal Palace painting, left Rome abruptly without finishing his work or saying goodbye to the Pope. While later working on a fresco in Bologna, he refused a cardinal's request to return to Rome, leading to an attempted arrest. Reni escaped, planning to flee Italy, but was convinced by his friend Marquis Facchinetti to return to Rome. Facchinetti persuaded the cardinal to annul Reni's sentence. In gratitude, Reni painted "Cupids Fighting Putti" and gifted it to the Marquis.
Landscape with the Flight to Egypt (FC236)
Landscape with the Flight to Egypt (c.1604) Carracci
“Landscape with the Flight to Egypt”(c.1604) by Annibale Carracci. This painting, the finest of the “Aldobrandini Lunettes,” elevated landscape art in value and appreciation, becoming a classic reference for painters. Painted for Cardinal Aldobrandini’s chapel between 1604 and 1613, it depicts figures and nature with balanced composition and ancient buildings, creating an ideal landscape.
Woman Grooming Herself (FC354)
Woman Grooming Herself Maestro Jacomo.
“Woman Grooming Herself” by Maestro Jacomo. This painting is small but stands out with the unique light source being included in the painting, a technique usually employed by the northern baroque artists. The woman is depicted removing fleas from her clothing and depositing them in the bucket in the foreground. The subject is also more typical of northern Baroque painters so it is interesting to find that it was painted in Rome. The artist’s actual identity is somewhat of a mystery also, and has been the subject of much speculation.
As you reach the end of the hall you will see the entrance to the “Velazquez Cabinet” on your left. In the small room there is a magnificent bust of the Pope by Bernini and the treasured portrait by Velazquez.
Portrait of Pope Innocent X Pamphilj (FC 289)
Portrait of Pope Innocent X Pamphilj”(c.1650) Velazquez.
“Portrait of Pope Innocent X Pamphilj”(c.1650) by Diego Velazquez. This painting is noted for its realism as an unflinching portrait of a highly intelligent, shrewd, and aging man. He is dressed in linen vestments, and the quality of the work is evident in the rich reds of his upper clothing, head-dress, and the hanging curtains.
Walk through the “Hall of Mirrors” and continue straight through one more room and you will find yourself in the room with 3 Caravaggios. There are chairs along the wall where you can sit and observe these masterpieces. This is by far the best room in the gallery as it is not cluttered with wall to wall paintings. The Caravaggios are hung at an appropriate height and are nicely lit for observation.
Penitent Magdalene (FC357)
Penitent Magdalene ( c.1595) Caravaggio
Caravaggio's "Penitent Magdalene" captures Mary Magdalene’s moment of repentance with remarkable emotional depth. The painting’s realistic portrayal of Mary, with her downcast eyes and humble posture, diverges from the idealized representations of the time. The simplicity of her surroundings emphasizes her renunciation of worldly possessions. Caravaggio's innovative approach, depicting Mary as a young woman in a contemporary setting, made her story relatable to viewers. The painting’s emotional depth and realism continue to captivate viewers, showcasing Caravaggio’s mastery in conveying complex human emotions and spiritual themes.
Rest on the Flight into Egypt(FC251)
Flight into Egypt (c1595) Caravaggio
Caravaggio's "Flight into Egypt"(c1595) showcases his exceptional skill in blending biblical themes with naturalism. The painting depicts the Holy Family's escape to Egypt, accompanied by an angel playing music. Caravaggio's realistic portrayal of the figures and the serene landscape creates a captivating contrast between divine intervention and everyday life. The angel's tender guidance and the intimate family scene highlight the humanity and vulnerability of the Holy Family. This work stands out for its emotional depth and Caravaggio's ability to merge the sacred with the ordinary, making it a remarkable piece in his oeuvre.
John the Baptist (FC349)
St. John the Baptist (c. 1602) Caravaggio
Caravaggio's "John the Baptist" is a striking example of his use of realism and dramatic intensity. The painting depicts a youthful John the Baptist with a contemplative expression, highlighting his spiritual introspection. Caravaggio's attention to detail in the rendering of John's muscular form and the naturalistic setting adds to the painting's powerful impact. The artist's characteristic blend of the sacred with the everyday makes this work particularly engaging, showcasing his ability to humanize religious figures and make them relatable to viewers.
After observing the Caravaggios you can walk out the way you came in, back to the hall of mirrors and walk down the third wing of the gallery on your left. In this wing there are several more small paintings by Maestro Jacomo with candlelight that are very interesting to observe.
Penitent Magdelene (FC272)
Penitent Magdalene (c.1617) Fetti
“Penitent Magdalene"(c.1617) by Dominico Fetti. Fetti was a Mantuan painter who moved to Venice and was one of the first painters in Venice to combine the mannerist style with Caravaggio’s realism.
At the end of the hallway turn left and walk through the “Aldobrandi Hall” that has several cool sculptures and in the “Green Hall” where there are many Medieval works and one early example of Baroque style.
Universal Flood (FC 73)
Universal Flood (c.1600) Scarsellino
“Universal Flood”(c.1600) by Ippolito Scarsella, aka “Scarsellino” is a fantastic piece of a unique subject. You can see Noah’s ark in the distance as everyone in the foreground is dealing with the rain and their certain doom.
Make your way back through the "Aldobrandi Hall” and walk straight to reach the fourth and final wing of the gallery.
John the Baptist (FC443)
St. John the Baptist copy of Caravaggio
“John the Baptist”painting has been the subject of much discussion regarding its authenticity as a Caravaggio original. The current thinking is that it is a copy of another St John the Baptist painting. It is currently hung quite high in the gallery and is difficult to observe due to the glare.
Susanna and the Elders (FC 326)
Susanna and the Elders (1605) Carracci
Annibale Carracci shows the moral contrast in the painting by depicting the virtuous Susanna in light and the corrupt elders in shadow. The painting’s high quality, smooth finish, and refined iconography impressed many artists of the time, leading to several copies.
After finishing with the final wing, turn left and walk back through the gift shop and straight through the other rooms until you are in the Poussin Hall and return your audio guide and exit the gallery.
This concludes the tour of the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, please let us know what you think in the comments below!
